Using a Billhook Safely and Effectively

Why the Billhook Still Earns Its Place

Walk into any hazel copse in January and you will hear the same sound that has echoed through British woodlands for centuries: the clean, hollow tock of a billhook meeting a stem. Chainsaws have their place, but for the sort of work coppicing demands — cutting dozens, sometimes hundreds, of slim stems at awkward heights in tight stools — nothing beats a well-kept hook in experienced hands. A billhook is quiet, light, needs no fuel, and will happily deal with a three-inch hazel rod in a single stroke. It is also unforgiving. A dull edge and careless feet are a bad combination, so let us go through how to use one properly.

Choosing and Sharpening Your Hook

Billhooks vary enormously by region — the Devon, the Kentish, the Yorkshire pattern — but for coppicing work you want a mid-weight hook with a straight or slightly curved blade around nine to twelve inches long. A single-edged hook with a sturdy ash handle is the traditional choice and remains hard to beat. Weight matters more than you might think: a hook that is too heavy tires your wrist by mid-morning, while one that is too light bounces off tougher stems.

Sharpness is the difference between control and accident. A blunt hook needs force, and force is what sends blades into legs. Keep a fine file and a small slipstone in your pocket and touch up the edge every half hour or so of cutting. Work along the bevel, maintaining the original angle, and finish with a few light strokes on the flat side to remove the burr. Never sharpen the flat face aggressively — that turns a controlled cutting tool into a wedge that will not bite.

• File the bevel, not the flat.
• Keep a leather sheath for carrying and storage.
• Do not leave a hook lying edge-up in the leaf litter.
• Wipe the blade with an oiled rag before putting it away.

Setting Your Stance Before You Cut

Good billhook work starts with the feet. Stand with your weight balanced, feet roughly shoulder-width apart, and never lean across your own body to reach a stem. If you cannot reach a piece comfortably, take a step. Twisting from the waist while swinging is how people tear muscles and lose control of the blade.

Position yourself so the stem you are cutting is at about waist to lower-chest height where possible, and always on your strong side. Cut away from your body — never draw the hook back towards your legs or torso. Your non-dominant hand should be free of the cutting line entirely, ideally resting on the stool or holding the stem well below the cut, with your thumb tucked in rather than wrapped around the wood.

Think about where the blade will go if the stem gives way suddenly. Hazel can be springy. A rod under tension may whip back, and a hook that follows through will carry on into whatever is behind it — shin, boot, or the next person's space. Set your body so the follow-through path is clear, and keep at least two hook-lengths between yourself and anyone else working.

The Cutting Stroke, Step by Step

Angle the blade so it meets the stem at roughly thirty to forty-five degrees rather than square on. A slicing angle cuts far more efficiently than a flat chop, and the stem is less likely to shatter. Bring the hook down and slightly towards you in one smooth motion, using the wrist and forearm rather than a big shoulder swing.

• Low cut first: take the stem close to the ground, leaving a clean stump of a few inches.
• Mind the stool: cut slightly above the previous year's scar, angled away from the centre so water runs off.
• Use two strokes if needed: for thicker rods, notch one side then cut cleanly from the other.
• Let the blade do the work: if you are hacking, stop and sharpen.

A clean cut heals quickly and encourages strong regrowth. A ragged, torn stump invites dieback into the stool, which is exactly the sort of damage that takes years to undo.

Handling Cut Material Sensibly

Once a stem is down, keep the site tidy as you go rather than leaving trip hazards underfoot. Lay cut rods with their butt ends pointing the same way so they are easy to gather and bind later, and keep the working area around each stool clear. You will move around a lot in a coppice, and a boot caught under a springy hazel rod is an easy way to end up on the ground with a sharp hook in your hand.

When you stop for a break, sheath the hook. Every time. It takes two seconds and it is the single habit that prevents most billhook injuries. Never pass a bare hook to someone else — lay it down and let them pick it up, or hand it over in its sheath.

Looking After Hook and Handler

At the end of a session, check the handle for cracks or a loose fit and give the blade a wipe of oil before it goes back in the sheath. Damp winter days will rust a neglected edge overnight.

Finally, pace yourself. Coppicing is repetitive work, and tired hands make poor decisions. Take regular breaks, keep your gloves on, and stop cutting the moment your grip or concentration slips. A sharp hook, a clear stance, and a steady rhythm will see you through a whole season of hazel with your fingers intact and your stools in fine shape for the next rotation.